Buccellati

The Italian firm of Buccellati (Founded 1919) is famous for textural gold jewelry and exquisite silver objects. The main design accomplishments of the Buccellati firm span four decades: from the 1920’s to the 1960’s. The pieces are bold and instantly recognizable, with a style that references the great goldsmiths of the Renaissance. The most distinctive aspect of Buccellati pieces is the rich textural quality, Mario Buccellati was the first to introduce the technique of texture-engraving. The most renowned engraving techniques are rigato (parallel lines cut onto the surface of metal to obtain a sheen effect), telato (texture, obtained by fine cross-hatched lines, which imitates linen surface), segrinato (engraving in every possible directions, overlapping textures), ornato (decoration, based on nature forms: animals, leaves, flowers), modellato (the most delicate engraving technique, which consists of reproducing several designs chiseled in three dimensions on a minuscule scale, mainly used for the decorations of the borders). Pieces are created to look and feel like silk, damask, tulle, lace, or linen. Use of mixed metals (silver and gold, platinum and gold) is also typical. If gemstones are used at all, they are often unusual: large cabochons, carved emeralds and rubies, rose-cut diamonds.